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Farnsworth Travel Blog

Photos and travel diaries by Era & Donald Farnsworth

Hello Dear Friends and Family,


Whisked back to 21st Century London, where the sun actually came out. 
  



Shows come and go. White Cube Gallery.

White Cube is on Bermondsey Street, pronounced with a slight accent on the first syllable. We were putting the accent on the second syllable and our taxi driver said, "I can't understand what street you want." We had to spell it for him. The building to the right is The Shard, currently the tallest building in London.




The Museum-like White Cube Gallery: Don, Tim Marlowe, Terrie Sultan, the show's curator, and the videographer, whose name I didn't get, preparing for an interview. We first met Tim in Belgium, when he came over to meet us (Chuck, Sienna, Don, Chuck's then nurse, and me) in Bruges, took us all out to dinner and was back to London the next day. On our flight over to London (Open Skies), we saw an interview Tim did of artist Doug Aitken. 




Era sewing a label onto the back of Self-Portrait (Yellow Raincoat) tapestry.






The exhibition is titled Chuck Close: Prints, Process and Collaboration. It has travelled to 19 different venues. The tapestries and watercolor prints were added to this possibly final venue, The White Cube in London. Terrie told us that in the Netherlands and in Austria they had to strike off the word "Collaboration," as it had negative connotations associated with collaborating with the Nazis. 






Had lunch with Terrie Sultan at José, an excellent tapas place on Bermondsey. It was such a beautiful day, we walked "home" along the Thames. Crossing London Bridge; Tower Bridge is in the background. A London Bridge has existed in this same spot for almost 2000 years, first being constructed by the Romans when they set up camp in Londinium in 46 AD. Uncharacteristically, they built it of wood, and it burned down and fell down, etc.

The first stone bridge was completed in 1209 in the reign of King John. It had houses, shops and a chapel constructed on it, as well as a drawbridge. To secure the bridge at night, a gate was installed at both ends. From the southern gatehouse, severed heads of traitors were displayed, including those of poor William Wallace and Sir Thomas More.




Found this artist's recreation.



Westminster Bridge; the Shard looming over all.



The pedestrian only Millennium Bridge.



When you wander off the bustling main boulevards, you come upon these charming back streets and courts. Era standing outside of Dr. Johnson's House. 

We had 5 nights in London, so rented an apartment. Ended up renting from a lovely young woman of Indian descent, Lakshmi, who owns an immaculate and fairly spacious apartment above a natural healing center, not far from the British Museum. We had already bonded over email, as we discovered we had both done a fundraiser for the Japanese people in the area hit by the tsunami. We brought her a Sacred Pine print, which is the print we sold as our fundraiser. If you find yourself in London for several days at least and would like to have a kitchen, a laundry and an immaculate apartment with healthy touches, such as all natural (and very comfortable) mattress, it's a great find. It is up 4 floors with no elevator, so not for everyone, but we loved it.

Much love,

Era and Don

Hello dear friends and family,

I know many of you are eagerly waiting to hear and see how our meal at Hix went, especially after those photos of the Full English Breakfast. I don't know, I think "nauseating" was a bit strong (I think more than one person may have used that word). I rather enjoy them, but I did break it up with a breakfast of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, which is available at many B&Bs.

Many of our readers are pretty hilarious people, so I felt I must share. From Rex Amos:  Since I have hugged you, this means I am one degree of separation from President Obama.  If I hug you in future perhaps this will mean I have hugged Obama, too.  And if I lick Don’s face, I will be one degree of separation from Bo.  Wow, I can hardly wait to see you two again!

And from the natural-born comedienne Mavis: Up early this morning, bubbling and squeaking after eating a big bacon cheeseburger with sliced onions at Pete's Henny Penny in Petaluma.  What an adventure you are having!  As usual, I've gained 5 pounds just looking at the food. Not sure about the sunny-side-up eggs, though...






Don displaying a starter of sprats; small white fish which have been splayed and deep fried. Delicious.











Don displaying his mussels (he insisted I cut off his head). I had a fish "pie"; assorted fish (all super fresh, don't worry) baked with a mashed potato crust; even less lovely in appearance than these dishes, but very tasty. I dunno folks, this isn't France or Japan. Presentation is not high on the list, but the food was quite excellent here.





It's lovely, but it's too friggin cold. Era striding across the beach. The Cobb is in the background

Ho, Salisbury!!





We stayed a bit out of Salisbury, the result of not having reserved ahead of time. It turned out to be great as the hosts, Steve and Kay, were great people. Steve, who trains marines how to jump freefall out of airplanes, had an aerial map of the area. We were staying towards the left side of the map and almost directly across from that double circle, which is Old Sarum. The inner circle was the medieval castle and the outer circle encircled the old town. You can see the outline of the old cathedral, which is, naturally, in the shape of a cross. The whole town was built upon the much older site of probably Druids and stone age people before them. The whole vast outer circle rises considerably up above the plain. Steve told us about a path, starting from their house, which went thru fields, over the river, and then brought you to the back entrance of Sarum. 




Passed this thatched house on the way.




Model of Old Sarum.

It was a wonderful path, some of it passing along the river, but then we couldn't find the back entrance.




And ended up having to scramble up this very steep hill of very slippery mud, just like would-be invaders of Old Sarum, except we didn't have boulders being thrown at our heads. There is a great deal of limestone around Old Sarum, which means a lot of diatoms make up the soil (an interest of ours) and also means very slippery while also sometimes sticky mud. I was so afraid that one of my shoes would fall off and roll all the way down the hill.





Part of the "inner circle." Cold and blustery at the top. This is why, we are told, some top decision-makers, church and king, decided to move the entire community to the flat plains and the confluence of several rivers of present-day Salisbury. I guess things must have calmed down politically and there was less fear of attack.

Walked into town in time to see the beautiful cathedral at dusk. 





Impressive.





Salisbury cloisters, the largest cloisters in somewhere - Great Britain? Anyway, pretty roomy.

Several local legends. Inside the impressive Salisbury cathedral is the tomb of an Earl of Salisbury, John Longspée, who our guide said was actually a good man, loyal, knightly, protector of the weak, that sort of thing. He died unexpectedly after a meal and poison was suspected at the time. Later when his tomb was dug up, a well-preserved rat was found inside his skull. This state of preservation was thought to have been the result of the rat having eaten Sir John's arsenic riddled brain. 





This rat is now in the Salisbury Museum. In the 21st century, a patron of the museum decided to adopt this rat, as she was born in the year of the rat. It's a fund-raising program the museum has. Thought Hung Liu might get a chuckle from this (also born in the year of the rat). A new idea for fund raising; museum officials everywhere, take note.

Another local legend has to do with the Haunch of Venison, the oldest pub in Salisbury, and where we did venture to have a meal, although it is so old that it reeks of all sorts of odd and ancient smells. An unfortunate card player there once had his hand removed and the mummified hand was preserved and is supposedly displayed in the pub. 




Era having a look at the supposed severed hand, which looked suspiciously like a rubber casting.

When we queried the bartender about it, he admitted that that was not the real hand. The real mummified hand has been stolen and recovered a number of times (once dropped thru the mail slot) and it is currently stolen. He did say that he thought the story about Churchill and Eisenhower is true. The 2 statesmen met in a cubby at the Haunch of Venison, and plotted at least some of their plans for D-Day. Looking at the photo (above) the nook or cubby would be the windows on the ground floor, right-hand side.




The bartender.

And one last Salisbury gristly bit, found at the Farmer's Market, next to the dog biscuits.




Whereupon, we climbed into our shiny red telephone box and were transported into 21st century London.

Love,

Era and Don


Dear friends and family,

First of all, the Christopher Robin ditty "They're Changing Guard at Buckingham Palace" is by A.A. Milne, of course. Not sure what I was thinking and too lazy to look it up. My friend Mary Day has very gently corrected me.

We got to Waterloo Station very early. Train to Axminster. Instructions from Joy at our B&B was that we should get off the train at Axminster and take a bus to the Hunter's Lodge Inn, and she was just down the road. We decided not to drive this trip, giving Don a chance to relax and not worry about driving on the "wrong side of the road." Reached Axminster, unknown territory -- I love that. Hopped on the bus. The bus driver had to pick the change out of Don's hand as we are still very slow with the British coins.

"Hunters Lodge!" We got off and looked around. Nothing that looked remotely like a B&B, and the lodge was closed. Thank God for cell phones and sim cards. Joy said down the road in the direction of the bus. Unfortunately, it was a very narrow road with a fair amount of traffic, going at almost freeway speeds. No sidewalks. So Don and I ran down the road, pulling our luggage and thankfully all drivers veered around us.

Warmly welcomed by Joy, who once worked in the House of Commons, "in the thick of things." Brisk, friendly and organized, she runs a beautiful B&B "Hedgehog Corner" and tries to be as green as she can. We were shown to our beautiful room which unfortunately did not have a very good internet connection. 


Full English, Lyme Regis, serve yourself beans on the side.










Full English, Salisbury. Those are the ubiquitous beans; think "pork and beans."

Up early for a "Full English Breakfast," which consists of bacon or rashers (more like thin slices of our ham, or what we might know as Canadian bacon), sausage, a sunny side up egg, beans, a fried half of a tomato, mushrooms, and toast. It is invariable and everywhere. Nobody seems to know when this came into vogue. One older woman (a bit older than us) said it wasn't so when she was young. They called it a fry up and everything would go into the fryer. Got into a discussion about the breakfast and then other British dishes, especially ones with funny names:
a banger (a sausage) - Just saw a Michael Caine movie (he's just returned to England, after being more or less under house arrest in Russia) where he says, "God, it's been so long since I've had a banger. I've really missed my bangers."
bubble and squeak (cabbage and potatoes fried, sometimes with bacon)
spotted dick (a cake roll with raisins) 
afters (dessert)
toad in a hole (batter with sausage in it or Yorkshire pudding)
cuppa (a cup of tea)
salad cream (salad dressing)
This conversation has continued with various other British people. Just today a woman told us she thought "banger" came from during the war when they would mix more bread with the sausage (than they do at present) and it would explode in the oven. Don queried, "And does Bubble and Squeak bubble and squeak in the oven?" The guide who was with us (in Salisbury Cathedral) said Bubble and Squeak would bubble and squeak when cooking. Don quipped or was it that perhaps we bubble and squeak after we eat it? Yes, probably so, said the guide, laughing.

Took a bus to Lyme Regis less than 10 minutes away. Bitterly cold on the beach, but quite magical.







A viewing platform from another era, a Jane Austen setting. Multi-colored changing rooms added at a later time. Gardens up above.



As stated previously, Lyme Regis is on the Jurassic Coast and is famous for its fossils, which are supposedly found everywhere down past those distant houses. We decided it was just too cold to venture down there.

Lyme Regis is also the setting for The French Lieutenant's Woman, which must have been one of Meryl Streep's first movies, and which I barely remember. It's also where my friend Mary Day tells me "stubborn Louisa fell off the Cobb and broke her ankle, in the great moment of Persuasion" by Jane Austen. The Cobb is a long curved sort of pier which stretches into the ocean. It is famous, but not that scenic. You can see the beginnings of it in the upper lefthand corner of the above photo.





Had to vacate the beach for a warmer walk inland. Walked by a young fishmonger who was cleaning lovely fresh fish. We asked him if there were any restaurants in town who purchased from him and he said Hix, up the road. It was up a steep road and next to some lovely gardens. Made a reservation and then took a great walk along the Coastal Path, which is a walking trail which seems to traverse the entire perimeter of England and Wales. We have begun to develop a great appreciation for the British system of walking trails, which seem to be everywhere, and so well-posted. On our hour or so walk down the Coastal Path and back, we passed a number of different connecting paths, all posted and giving directions to other walking paths. They seem to criss-cross the island.




The locals seem to easily identify with hobbits. We saw an area called The Shire, a boat named Bilbo Baggins, a family named Underhill. Here is a magic garage, which looks as if it comes from Middle Earth.


And here is a hobbit, seen retreating, a rare sight indeed.




And the Road goes ever on and on...

Love,

Era and Don

Dear friends and family,

Our meeting with Obama made Leah Garchik's column in the San Francisco Chronicle. 

A presidential aversion to whiskers

Our thanks to my friend since childhood, Deborah Hoffman for alerting Leah, and to Leah Garchik for her accurate reporting of the events. 

Woke up after a great sleep in our London hotel. I was a little worried after waking up at 10:30 pm, wide awake and totally confused about whether it was 10:30 in the morning or evening. Did manage to get back to a great sleep after typing away on the email. Good thing Don is a champion sleeper.

Spent the morning answering emails and actually doing some work. Kiki Smith is having a show or series of shows in Europe which include her tapestries, so a lot of writing back and forth between her studio, the different venues, shipping, details on the pieces.


Hopped on the tube, where Don looked around and said, "Hmmmm…they look like my distant relations… pale, fleshy and yearning for some sunshine."


Not too pale, and I won't comment on the fleshy.

Took the tube to the Queen's Gallery at Buckingham Palace; an amazing show from the Queen's collection of many Holbeins and Durers. As Don said, "If you're going to see someone's art collection, you might as well go to the richest person in the world." Amazing to be able to put your nose right up to the Holbeins and see the stray hairs, e.g. here on Hans of Antwerp. The museum guards were remarkably tolerant.











This amazing sketch is painted, incredible mastery of the brush. A study by Durer for a woodcut.

Some of the work was commissioned by the Queen's illustrious ancestors, some gifted, and some simply confiscated on the death or execution of some out-of-favor subject. It all adds up to quite a collection.

Chuck told us that one can tell that Durer did not cut his own wood blocks or engravings as so much crosshatching is used, a painstaking method of achieving a shadow in an engraving (as the lines are not cut, the engraver cuts the small spaces between the lines). After seeing these prints, I don't know how you could talk or pay anybody to cut in this minute detail. Whoever cut these was clearly a master and clearly loved cutting the marks. It reminds me of the stories of the Emperor of China's seamstresses going blind embroidering his and other aristocrats' court costumes. I felt like I could damage my eyes just looking at the detail on these prints.




St. Jerome in his study.




A detail from St. Jerome. In real life this section of the print is about 2 inches wide. 

Left the Gallery, passed by Buckingham Palace, and unbidden, there popped into my head a ditty by E.E. White, which my mother used to read to us:

They're changing guard at Buckingham Palace
Christopher Robin went down with Alice
Alice is marrying one of the guards
A soldier's life is terribly hard
said Alice

That's all I remember, and it goes on, the sergeant is in charge of their socks, etc. So cute. Freezing walk to Covent Garden.




Had a wonderful meal at Polpo, billed as Venetian style cichetti. It's on Maiden Lane near Covent Garden. I had a Negroni and Don had the lovely young waitress make him his own version of a Spritz: white wine, Campari, juice of half a lime and some bitters. 

Also had some spicy chili prawns, salads, arancini, the works. We got a call from our dear French friend, Annie Salt: Jonathan was flying into London on his way to Croydon. He wanted to meet up with us. At the end of the meal we got a call from Jonathan; he was at the bar in our hotel.

Rushed back. So good to see him.




Telling Jonathan about our meeting with Obama; how friendly and open he was, especially in contrast to how harsh, aggressive and dominating the secret service were. Jonathan commented that in England the guards would be firm, but polite. He said American officials are always rude and shouting. He thought it was their military training. How did we develop into such rude and arrogant people (some of us)? 




Jonathan also told us that he had given Annie a Salt family signet ring just like this (generations old), which she had lost for 3 and a half years. She had put in "a safe place", which I can tell you from experience is a dangerous thing to do. They searched everywhere to no avail. Then one day he saw a glint of something when maintaining a fixture near their swimming pool. He emptied it out and there was the ring. I'm not at all counting on such a thing happening, but it's always possible.

Received this lovely quote from Chris S. (not my old boyfriend, the husband of Candida). 

I read this passage about a coveted and precious ring that the owner was reflecting on:

"I may have coveted it all my life and I do love it, but as I hold it up to the sunshine and watch it sparkle I wish that it was somehow back on my mother’s hand. Destiny can be about realising that what we love most are people and the things that make them happy. Without the people their things are just things…"
Yes, we are not our things. We are all something much, much more than that.

Now on a train to Lyme Regis -- why? Not sure, exactly. Something about wanting to take some long walks in the beautiful British countryside. Something about going South where the weather might be a little better. Something about the name of the place; Jane Austen had some of her characters visit there, also it's on the Jurassic Coast, another intriguing name. Something about finding a great looking B&B there. We will let you know.

Love,

Era and Don

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About the Authors

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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