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Farnsworth Travel Blog

Photos and travel diaries by Era & Donald Farnsworth

Dear friends and family,

We are thankful that we are sometimes called upon to travel for business and art-related activities as not only are they usually fun, but it forces us to go out and see things beyond our normal everyday realm.

Kathy Goncharov, the head curator at Boca Raton Museum of Art, had been working hard for a considerable amount of time putting together a fabulous exhibition of tapestries, carpets and all sorts of textile art - Nomadic Murals: Contemporary Tapestries and Carpets. We had promised we would show up for their museum supporters opening and give a little presentation. So happy to pack our bags again, but of course things were super busy at Magnolia. We left a lot on the shoulders of Tallulah, Nicholas, Alyssa, Nick, and our part-time helpers, Arlene and Sam. Fortunately, they are well up to the task.

Had a wonderful dinner right after our flight at Kathy's; she's a talented cook. Fennel risotto; yum. We met her significant other of many years, Charles (Charlie) Doria, a scholar of Ancient Greek amongst other specialties. Don was excited to question him as Don loves Homer's Odyssey and has listened to a full version about three times.

William Kentridge, tapestry handwoven in South Africa.


Beautiful detail in this tapestry.


Bruce Conner tapestry, At the Head of the Stairs, to the left, courtesy of Magnolia Editions and the Conner Family Trust. Information placards are not up yet. This is before the opening. The carpet to the right was hand made in Nepal of Tibetan wool, courtesy of Equator Production. For more detail, more images and further information on these tapestries, please go to: www.magnoliaeditions.com.


A stretch of Magnolia Editions tapestries: Reclining Youth by Leon Golub. This immense tapestry is too large to hang in some museums. It almost looks small at the Boca Raton Museum of Art; Harbor by Kiki Smith; Allegory of the Monoceros by Andy Diaz-Hope and Laurel Roth-Hope; Mythos I - Homage to Mantegna by Donald and Era Farnsworth

There is also quite an amazing carpet on the floor, a Swedish production.

Doug Hall's Piacenza Opera House



Duppy Conqueror II by Faisal Abdul-Allah and The Gypsy Fortune Teller by Kehinde Wiley

The sort of exploding red carpet is Virgin by Faig Ahmed, Azerbaijan.

The next evening Don and I gave a presentation with slides for the museum's Benefactors Group. They had a reception afterward with tasty food and drink. Then we went out to dinner (burp) with Kathy Goncharov, Carlos Luna and family, Carol Damian, ex-director of the Frost Museum, Petra Singh of Equator Production, and others.



Next morning Don took a large group of the museum's docents on a fast-paced educational tour of how Jacquard tapestries are made, and some snippets about the different artists and their tapestries. 
Shown here are Don and some of the docents in front of Alex Arrechea's Havana tapestry. 

And here admiring The Visitor by artists Aziz + Cucher

We got stuck in very bad traffic and didn't have time to visit Alex Arrechea at his studio, as we had hoped. Probably just as well as he seemed very busy himself, having just flown in from somewhere and was about to leave for Spain.


We did see our friend Santiago Montoya at his new studio. Here Era and Santiago standing in front of  a large piece constructed of $1 bills and silver-leafed $1 bills. American money around the world.


Admiring Santiago's open air patio in the middle of his studio complex.


Santiago took us to what is currently his favorite restaurant in Miami, MC Kitchen. As it happened, they had a large Squeak Carnwath painting in one of their dining rooms. The food was inventive and delicious.

The lovely owner Brandy Coletta is a huge Squeak Carnwath fan. She insisted on giving us a dessert; so we dug into a beautiful Tiramisu, which didn't do any favors to Don and my waistlines.

We not only missed Alex Arrechea on this trip, we also missed Chuck Close who had left for NY only a few days earlier. But he did let us stay in his wonderful apartment. View of Miami Beach from his hallway. 

Next day, like magic, we find ourselves in beautiful Costa Rica.

It's a short plane ride to Costa Rica. It's even shorter to Cuba; it seemed like we had barely taken off when we were passing over Cuba. I hear it is more difficult to go there now that we have our Unhinged Leader in power.

We were picked up at the San Jose airport by a driver with a placard and whisked off to the Volcano Lodge outside of Fortuna, at the base of Mount Arenal, an occasionally active volcano, seen above. It's about a three-hour drive.

The climate is hot and humid, and the local vegetation so tropical.


These are all taken on the grounds. I wish I could tell you the names of the plants.



Sculptural ripening bunches of bananas



Orchid


The next day we signed up to go on a Hanging Bridges walk. We were hoping to see birds, but most of the strictly birding walks started at 5:00 or so.



More on that in the next episode.



Love from,

Era and Don

Dear friends and family,

Shortly before we left on our trip we had a visit from Kathy Goncharov, chief curator at the Boca Raton Museum of Art, who is putting together a tapestry show at the Museum. Kathy is a former US Commissioner to the Venice Biennale and brought a beautiful glass show Glasstress from the Berengo Studios at Murano to Boca Raton. Kathy kindly offered to introduce us to  the people at Berengo, which she proceeded to do. 



Early on December 30, Marco Berengo showed up at our palazzo loading dock with his boat to pick us up for Murano and the Berengo Studios. 


Our French neighbors (renting a different floor in the palazzo) looking down and greeting us.


Pulling away down the Grand Canal; that's the Palazzo Loredan where we're staying; the gray building with the scaffolding on the side.




The Wild family, enjoying the view from the back of the boat.



Passing the Salute or the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. 


Marco and Era posing (very Japanese of us).



And on the other side of the boat, the Wilds whooping it up. Are they water skiing?

We stop by the Lido first to pick up Adriano Berengo, Marco's father and founder of the firm, and two of his younger children.


Tying up at Murano.


Adriano Berengo and Era with some crazy lighting by Pieke Bergmans, a Dutch artist.






Some of the many kilns at Berengo. That orange is actual flames shooting through the cracks in the door.


In the back rooms.




An installation, partially deconstructed. Marco explained that they had a big party here during the Biennale with elaborate computerized lighting which lit up the glass objects installation hanging from the ceiling. Sorry that I can't remember the artist's name.



Glass bamboo


Projects by different artists; a sketch by Ai Weiwei for a future project in front of the terra cotta colored pine cone looking piece by British artist Tony Cragg. The bones and almost everything you see is glass.

The bee hive or pine cone like pieces are made up of many cross-sections of small human heads. The ears provide some great texture. 


The charming goat is by Marta Klonowska, a Polish artist 


Took a pre-lunch walk past old Murano warehouses. All the glass blowers and manufacturers were forced to locate to Murano long ago because of fear of runaway fires in Venice proper.

 Lunch at B Restaurant, down the street from the Berengo Gallery. It is not very impressive looking, looking somewhat like an American restaurant, but the food was delicious. 

David enjoying his octopus salad.


Jill cutting into her carpaccio, which she kindly shared with us. Underneath is a bed of arugula. Delicious. After traveling with the Wilds, I now know that I would do well to order whatever Jill orders. She has a knack.


Jill and I both ordered branzino (European sea bass). Decidedly yummy.


The talented chef at B Restaurant

Arrivederci, Murano. A wonderful visit. Thank you, Marco, Adriano and Kathy Goncharov.


Hard to believe, but this photo has not been Photoshopped. 



Another day, another view from the apartment, towards the Accademia Bridge which is being repaired and is covered with some construction netting.


We decide to brave the crowds at Piazza San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale (the Doges' Palace). This is inside the courtyard, past the entrance. Back in the Middle Ages designers and builders were brought to Venice from Constantinople to construct the Palazzo Ducale, the Basilica San Marco and surrounding area. This is what gives it and Venice as a whole its decidedly fairy tale Eastern flavor. The piazza was formerly some orchards, small houses and other buildings which were all torn down. All buildings facing the piazza were required to construct the arched colonnades that you see today.


Inside, it's overwhelming, and so much happening on the ceiling that one gets a neck ache looking up. Those of you who have been there will understand, but my memories were not nearly equal to the reality.


Room after room.



This shows a city being attacked by what look to be Venetian galleys. There are a number of these paintings featuring different cities under attack.



A popular subject in Venice; Venice hosted the Pope and Holy Roman Emperor Barbarossa who were fighting each other and negotiated a peace. The story is that Barbarossa kissed the feet of the Pope, and the Pope presented the City of Venice with a gold ring which the Doge took out into the lagoon in his famous barge, the Bucentauro, and threw the gold ring into the waters, symbolically marrying Venice to the Sea. A high point in Venetian history, the subject is well-represented at the Ducal Palace. This event is reenacted every year.


Piazza San Marco at night. Don, Michael and Era braved the cold and went out for an evening walk.





Michael and Don. We all felt it was too cold to stay out till midnight, but they did shoot off some fireworks for New Years.

Happy New Year, everybody. It's an amazing planet, inhabited by many beautiful people (now and in the past), who have created some astounding cities, structures, buildings, filled with art and so many delights. Let's hope we, including our leaders, can be worthy and appreciative of this precious legacy and the gifts that have been handed to us.

Love,

Era and Don


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About the Authors

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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