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Farnsworth Travel Blog

Photos and travel diaries by Era & Donald Farnsworth


Dear family and friends,

Thanks so much for commiserating with me so touchingly and beautifully about the loss of my mother's ring. I have to tell you, it was not an easy loss to take. People have written in with stories of their loss of well-loved rings, including one from a friend and chef who said she lost a valuable and personally meaningful yellow sapphire ring while baking. While fairly devastating, something shifted in her. I choose to look at any of these mere losses of the physical, while rather sad, as lessons in preparing us for the big loss or the big change. We can choose to go on and live (or not) with it, looking forward to all life or the universe has to offer. I value the love, support and values that my parents passed on  to me and my siblings (or attempted to pass on; the ones which we decided to accept) far more than the ring.

Saturday, the day that we fly out to London, we showed up in the morning at Chuck's studio to assist or encourage him to sign his tapestry labels; not his favorite activity.
(Don: this is the same pen Obama used to sign tapestry labels a few days earlier.) 



The label fabric is rough, with a strong tooth, so not the easiest to write on. Okay, now we're convinced we have to find a smoother fabric. Note: Era's ringless finger. I took the other ring off for safekeeping until I can get it refitted.




This is Chuck right after finishing this (signing) ordeal. He had just been told that we weren't going to take the labels with us (he had thought he had to sign them right that minute) that they were being sent to Magnolia. He's giving us a look of exasperation, but not without affection. (Don: A quick quip from Chuck (which shall go un-penned), I answer  "I love you, too" and raise my camera and take this photo, whereupon we leave for the airport)



Working on Cindy in marble.




Other cool NY stuff. MakerBot, around the corner from Chuck's studio. They make 3D printers or fabricators.




A printed object.

Freezing cold in NY. Got to the airport early - Newark to catch an Open Skies flight. Most comfortable, fabulous flight. Seats recline and leg support lifts so you're almost lying flat. No one in front, behind or to the side of us. What? Nobody wants to go to Europe in February? Slept like a baby after watching Anna Karenina, which I loved. Although I have to agree with some of the critics, it's too long. Beautifully filmed and crafted, however.

We were flying sort of a limbo class on Open Skies, not business and not coach. The food on the plane pretty much sucked. We flew Open Skies once before and the food was pretty decent. In Newark we were not invited into the lounge, but on our Paris stopover, we were ushered in. Crisp, flakey, buttery, freshly-baked croissants and all the cappuccini one could drink. A dapper young French man in a well-cut suit appeared to escort us onto the British Air flight. Apparently, they think if you are in the lounge, you may have stopped using any brains you might have had and need an escort to get you on the right flight. The very smooth escort did usher us into place ahead of some long lines of people, which was embarrassing. I tried not to look at them, although I did apologize to a few. But by this time, some of our group were such slow walkers that we really did need to cut the line. 

Landed in Heathrow and were greeted by a pleasant customs agent who chatted with us for a while; a rather rare occurrence. It may have helped that he appeared to be of Indian or Pakistani descent, and therefore has probably been at the other end of some pretty rude treatment by customs agents. Got the sim card for our iPhone, got the British pounds, got the big black London taxi, and we were whisked to our hotel in Kensington, which thankfully, God Bless them, let us check in early for a shower and a nap.



The wonderfully ornate stairway from the main lobby of our hotel Bailey's in Kensington. 

Dinner at Racine, nearby our hotel and the Victoria and Albert. 

It was good, but not great, (Don: it was semi-expensive) and not very photo-worthy (except for photo below). And not as good as BayWolf in Oakland, which can be counted on to serve something with a little unexpected twist.

Soupe de poisson (not as rich as it should be, but still pretty delish)
Roast lamb with roast garlic on some Italian beans (also good, but pretty standard - no surprises for our jaded palates)
Don had bunny rabbit with mustard sauce and green beans (big ass bunny - looked more like a Jack rabbit)






Soupe de Poisson, which will be ever linked in our mind with Annie Salt, whom we met when she taught us a cooking class in the South of France. On that trip we were joined by Guy Diehl. The Soupe de Poisson took almost all day and involved grinding small Mediterranean fish into a paste; fish scales and little fish parts all over us and the kitchen, but that soup was divine. This was a poor substitute, really. Mildred Howard's gumbo has the same sort of incredibly rich essence of the sea flavor. We assisted Mildred to make her gumbo recently; we prepared it over 2 days. 








Era, looking contemplative ("Why did I eat so much?", after a huge English breakfast at Bailey's.

Much love,

Era and Don
Dear friends and family,

First of all, thanks to all of you who have written a response. What incredible friends and family. You are loved (if not by us, by someone). Joking, you're loved by us.

Got this wonderful photo by Ms. O, who we usually bring along with us on our trips, as, apart from her other manifold charms, she has a knack for capturing pictures that no one else seems to get: Don swimming in the Venice canal, Don up to his knees in Romanian potholes, Don and Era in a gypsy cart. This time Ms. O managed to get a photo of Obama in the White House! with Don doing his impression of George W, the 1st.  Obama found it very amusing. 




The next morning we met Joann Moser, one of the curators at the Smithsonian, at the National Portrait Gallery for a tour of the Nam June Paik show and to see the Chuck Close Obama tapestries installed there. The tapestries, which usually look so huge, looked a normal size on the museum walls. The Nam June Paik exhibition was very well installed; we spoke about how it could so easily have been overwhelming. Also a great little piece by a San Francisco artist, whose name I can't remember, naturally, his impression of a miniature Smithsonian. I have a feeling Inez and Andrew gave me a catalog of his work at one time. Joann took us to a wonderful Burmese restaurant for lunch for a delicious ginger salad. We had had a quick dinner with Chuck, Sienna, Thais (correct spelling) and Joann at the train station the evening before, right after the White House, where Chuck and crew ate efficiently and hurried off to catch a train back to NY. Manny was driving the precious signed prints back. 




Obama tapestries hanging at the Smithsonian for President's Day, with Joann and Don.


On Joann's recommendation, we took a cab out to the Katzen to see our friend Andrea Way's retrospective at the American University. We greeted Jack Rasmussen in the hallway as he was rushing to make a dental appointment. After seeing Joann's quite beautiful show of incredibly detailed work, we caught the train to NY, where we were able to plug in and start receiving all your emails. I have to admit I did receive some during our lunch with Joann. How rude. 





One of the pen and ink and mixed media pieces from Andrea Way's retrospective.

10 minutes before we were to arrive in Penn Station, the strangest thing happened. I was standing in the train aisle with my suitcase when my rings, my 2 wedding rings, fell off my finger. It felt as if they were literally sucked off my ring finger. I dropped to the floor and very quickly found what I think of as my Squeak ring, as it was inspired by Squeak and Gary's wedding rings, a wide gold band with white and black jade dots embedded in it, only mine has additional green dots in it. But my mother's even wider and chunkier gold band, which my father had made for my mother, could not be found. We had about half the people in the train cabin, all the people on our side of the train looking, many with their iPhone flashlights on and it was just nowhere to be found. It's probably one of the physical objects I most valued. Both Don and I felt like someone (my parents ?) was trying to send me a message - maybe Don't get too pleased with yourself. As my ex-boyfriend (when I was 19 years old) Chris wrote: "The Dalai Lama, Brad Pitt and now Obama. There will be no living with you." Well, I'm still here on Planet Earth, in the physical universe and living this incredibly wonderful and sometimes not so wonderful life.

Don gave up looking before I did (he was afraid the train would pull away), and I followed him off the train and up the escalator. As we reached the top of the escalator, I realized I didn't have my cell phone. We searched our possessions and Don looked at his app which shows the cell phone's location. "It's still on the train." I ran down one escalator, but then had to run down an Up escalator, as I couldn't find the way down to the train. Found a couple of the same people in our compartment. Now I was back looking for my cell phone. I must have seemed like a crazy person. One level-headed woman offered to call my cell phone, and when I couldn't remember my number, we called Don's cell. "He's got your cell phone." "You've got my cell phone?" "Yes, get off the train. It's leaving in 30 seconds." At least I didn't break a leg running down that Up escalator.

When we checked into our hotel the man at the front desk asked, "So how was your day?" "Real highs and real lows. Got a hug from Obama yesterday and just lost my mother's wedding ring today." "Oh."

In NY for a few days, working with Kiki Smith and Chuck Close. How does it get any better?




Kiki, Beka and Don contemplating imagery and possible material for another tapestry.




Kiki working away amidst her sculptures.




Chuck's studio with Manny, large scale prints and tapestries. A row of Obama portraits on the floor. Chuck gave the President a couple of portraits in that "smaller" size. 



Some of Chuck's African art and a pillow made for him in Chuck's favorite colors by a friend who was undergoing many hours of dialysis.

It's not all work, though. Some good food was had.





Finishing up breakfast at Peels. 




The staff at Peels.




Era, looking pretty pleased at the idea of eating her merluz with cockles and small white beans at Il Buco. Delish.






Chuck looking almost reverent before digging into his octopus.





Japanese at Sobaya. Also very much enjoyed cocktails at Amor y Amargo, a bitters tasting room; and Empellon Cocina, Mexican fusion - sweetbread tacos. Yummy.

Cheers! Love you!

Era and Don

Hi friends and family,

It turns out there were no national emergencies and our meeting at the White House with Chuck Close and President Obama went extremely well.

We were picked up by Chuck, Sienna and Chuck's nurse, Tyice (sp?) at the Willard Hotel (we are not staying there; just meeting there). Then we drove across the street to the White House. There we had to pass thru about 5 different security gates. At the first gate, Tyice was turned away. She couldn't even drive the van onto the grounds. She had not been previously cleared. So Sienna took over and we drove to the next gate, which was maybe 10 yards further. There a guard came out with a German Shepherd and walked a rotation around the van, the Shepherd sniffing it from all angles. 




It's really cold in Washington. Chuck passing in front of the Treasury Department and one of the gates.

We passed the dog test and another gate slid down into the road, allowing us to drive thru. At that point we were able to park with a number of other vans and SUVs, some of them with Obama stickers. We got out of the van into the DC cold, where we waited patiently at another gate while the guards checked our credentials once more. We walked down a path next to the Treasury Department and turned into another guardhouse, which then, after more checking of papers, scanning etc, led directly into the White House.

This is the beautiful waiting room.


Chuck and Meaghan, one of the people running the re-election fundraiser campaign.



"Our" room is ready ("The Map Room"). 


Sienna, Chuck's partner, an excellent photographer and talented artist. We were told in emphatic terms that we were not allowed to photograph the president in the White House.



But we could photograph his tapestry. When Obama walked in he said he thought it was kind of scary to see himself that big.


After unpacking we had a bit of a wait till the great man arrived.


Don enthroned in a replica of a chair once owned by George Washington. They had some of the original chairs in the room; same red damask, slightly faded.




Manny, Chuck's righthand man, and Chuck. Beth, Chuck's other irreplaceable assistant had to hold down the fort in NY and could not be with us at the White House.

After a couple false alarms ("We have movement; he's on his way." It turns out he was moving somewhere else), Obama walked into the room with a few secret service. Famous big smile, he seemed like an old friend. He greeted Chuck, whom he knows, and came over to me. I told him that we were from Oakland. He replied "I love Oakland." Good response, but I bet he says that to all the home towns. I said everybody in Oakland and all of the artists, when I told them I might be seeing Obama, said, "Give him a hug from me. We love Obama." He said, "Well, you better give me a hug, then." So I hugged Obama from all of you (in my mind, everybody who is getting this email) and he hugged me back. Awesome!

He very efficiently signed all the prints he was supposed to sign and all of the tapestry labels. He made a couple cracks about the new Treasury Secretary Jack Lew's signature and said Lew is going to have to do something about changing it. Obama has a great signature, by the way, and so does Chuck, so the signatures look great on the prints and on the labels. They don't devalue them, as Obama has joked Jack Lew's signature might do to the currency.

Pretty much of a respectful silence was maintained while Obama was signing. It's difficult for anyone to try to field questions and carry on a conversation while signing a number of pieces which have to be signed perfectly. It was so tempting to pull out an iPhone and snap a photo. Too bad it makes that ostentatious clicking sound. 

After signing, I did manage to tell him that we drive a Volt which we power with solar panels. And Don mentioned that we have not filled up in over 2500 miles, which is true. In fact, we have not filled up that car yet. I thanked him for the federal tax credits. He seemed pleased. Don told him that the artists loved him. Manny got a hug, too, something about his grandmother wanting to give Obama a hug. Apparently, this is the path to an Obama hug. Actually, Manny's grandmother wanted him to give Obama a hug and a kiss. Obama said he'd hug him, but declined the kiss. And that was it; he was out the door to his next important meeting or task. We found him to be absolutely charming. 




Chuck signing one of the huge prints.




Didn't manage to get a photo of Don with Obama, but did get one of Don cuddling up to Bo, the family dog. This photo taken right after Bo had been licking Don's face. So Don must have some Obama family DNA now.

We may get some photos from the official photographer. I hope so. If so, I'll send some, but probably will not be right away.

Love from DC,

Era and Don


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About the Authors

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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