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Farnsworth Travel Blog

Photos and travel diaries by Era & Donald Farnsworth

Dear Friends and Family,

Okay, one more. Had too much material, so last post was all Right Bank and this one will be all or predominantly Rive Gauche. We walked the Left Bank on mostly a very cloudy day, so keep that in mind, but on the other hand, it's very atmospheric. As a teenager, the Left Bank was where everything was happening and the Right Bank seemed stodgy and full of banks and large department stores. These days the Right Bank has gotten a lot more trendy (than times past).
Menacing plant roots near the ancient Roman arena

Animal fantasy which was a little difficult to find. We sought it out.



Speaking of animal fantasies, we heard from Ms. O. She and family also had a goose for Xmas dinner, slaughtered, plucked and cooked by the hubby. She says it was a mean goose and they now have enough feathers for a down pillow.


Total cutie-pie

Beautifully painted former boucherie.

 Detail


A reminder that the French gifted us the Statue of Liberty; financed, at least partially, with donations from the people of France


Stopped for a light lunch at the Islamic tea house (which also has baths)

Finally made it to the Gobelins tapestry factory. Not overwhelmed, but the tours of the workshop were not available that day.


The beautiful entryway of the medieval Cluny Museum


Inside the Cluny; museum viewing is hard work.

By now we have worked up an appetite and fortunately we are meeting the Wilds at Les Enfants Rouges, a new-ish restaurant. It is on the Right Bank, rue de Beauce.

My starter (& Michael & Jill's) an absolutely delicious very lightly cooked fish; almost a sushi. Was it sea bass? Sorry, can't remember.

Don's was an egg with beans and bacon, which he said was delicious and reminiscent of an excellent English breakfast


Don's main, beef steak

I think this was Borja's, lamb with root vegetables. Michael, Jill and David all had sweetbreads with the same vegetables. I didn't get a good photo of it, but I did get a taste. Yum.

My main was some type of game in a very rich, slightly teriyaki sauce. Truffle mashed potatoes. 

Michael eyeing his Baba Rhum.

That's more like it.

My dessert, a walnut cake, delicate and crumbly


Borja was still a little wan and unsatisfied after that plentiful meal, so we all walked over to the Falafel stand.

Nearby graffiti

A tip from the doctor landlord of our Paris apartment. He highly recommended Picard, a chain of food stores in Paris which flash freezes their food and has all non-GMO. It is now illegal for a French or Parisian restaurant to serve frozen food and claim it is made in-house. Totally understandable, as Picard food tastes very much like, perhaps better, than some of the bistros where we have eaten in past trips. Of course, it does not compare to the fine restaurants of Paris or to Michael and Jill's cooking. Michael Wild won't have anything to do with them and didn't even want to be mentioned in the same email, but if you're in Paris, and you don't have Michael and Jill cooking for you, and you get tired of eating out every meal, or tired of paying for it, we recommend you check it out. Please find the link below to a blog about it. It seems that maybe the writer is from our own Oakland, California. If anyone knows her, please let me know. I tried to comment on her blog, but was not able to post it.

This is what I tried to write:

In Paris for the holidays 2013, staying in an apartment on Ile St Louis, and just discovered Picard. Couldn't agree more. Had the creme de langoustine soup, the spinach, potatoes with truffles. So convenient to have these presented to you in tablespoon size frozen nuggets. Didn't know it was all non-GMO and flash frozen. Wonderful! Right at this moment preparing the guinea hen stuffed with mushrooms.
Of course, shopping in the little stores and markets is one of the joys of Paris, so we are doing that also.
Picard is amazing, though, and since we are from Oakland, CA, also in complete agreement to bring more Picard products to the Trader Joe's there where I am certain they would be very popular.  We will mention it to the manager at Lakeshore.

http://cernwife.blogspot.fr/2012/05/picards-foods.html

We ate our Picard food after the Wilds left. Also had the most wonderful Boudin Blanc sausages ever, ever, ever from the same amazing boucherie (J.P. Gardil) where our Xmas dinner meats were purchased, and which was right down the street from us. These were flavored with truffles and really, no rival in sight.

Below we leave you with a photo of the stuffed guinea hen from Picard. 

Guinea hen stuffed with sausage and mushrooms from Picard; excuse the not exactly gourmet presentation.


Love and Best Wishes for the New Year for all of us and our beautiful World!

Era and Don
Dear friends and family,

Working feverishly and probably annoying Don, as I know when we get back to Oakland I will be too busy to finish our trip blog, witness what happened with our St. Petersburg trip.

Now in the British Air lounge, awaiting our flight home. Following is a collection of photographs of random sights in Paris; many of which you will probably recognize:


Love the location of our modest apartment; surrounded by the Seine


Close to the Louvre (even if it is too crowded for us to bother)

Not far from the Pompidou

Such a pleasure to walk the streets of Paris




Indeed, our favorite exercise

 It sure feels great to sit down and take the weight off

The proprietor served us huge Campari cocktails, and perhaps that's why I left my purse and blithely walked off, to discover it less than 2 blocks later, but couldn't find the little café for probably half an hour as the streets suddenly filled with people having just finished their lunches and the little crooked streets looked so different. Don and I were running around like chickens with their heads cut off. I have not done this since I left it once in a taxi in London years ago. Both incidences turned out well, after a period of extreme panic.

Decorative metro station

Gardens of the Palais Royal, near the Louvre, originally the home of Cardinal Richelieu before becoming royal property. Wiki says: "The court gatherings at the Palais-Royal were famed all around the capital as well as all of France." Darling, you should have been there.
More recently Jean Cocteau lived here, in one of the apartments.
So glad we finally donated to Wikipedia; we use them all the time.

 The Columns of Buren at the Palais Royal by Daniel Buren

Place Vendome where the Ritz is getting a complete makeover.

 And then at the end of the day, coming "home" to Michael and Jill, 
who so generously and deliciously feed us.

Borja and David

Love,

Era and Don
Dear friends and family,

Random photos, a typical day in Paris, and maybe a few days thrown together.


Tuileries

The lines at the Louvre were ridiculous. Standing in (almost) freezing cold weather for 2 hours to get inside a completely packed museum. Good thing we almost have the museum memorized and didn't feel a great urgency to go. The world population has tripled since we baby boomers were born.

La Tour Eiffel during the day, albeit an overcast one

Outside of the Palais de Tokyo

The Pompidou; we are joined by David's Spanish Basque friend, Borja. 

The Pompidou now has a Chuck Close Self-Portrait (Yellow Raincoat) tapestry in their collection, or they almost do; it hasn't been delivered yet.


A wonderful Surrealism exhibit - above, Masculin / Féminin by Mimi Parent

Bust of a woman with a baguette by Salvador Dali

 Deer in the headlights


 Man Ray's coat hanger mobile casting shadows on a floating suitcase

An assemblage of packages sent to Didier Ottinger, the exhibition curator

And quite a surprise, the little square box at the bottom is from the Cheryl Haines Gallery in San Francisco



A little rest before dinner at…

Ambassade d"Auvergne. Don's starter: a cassoulet. Potatoes, ham and beans. He loved it.

Michael had warned us that the food would be very rich and that we shouldn't eat anything that day.

Michael and I both had their very hearty and tasty cabbage soup with Roquefort cheese.

David's starter was lentils, which came in a huge tureen. We all tasted some; perfectly cooked. Borja is eating foie gras.



 Don's main was a cabbage whose leaves had been lifted apart and very thin layers of sausage sandwiched between the leaves. It was sublime.

Jill and I both had Blanquette de Veau

Michael's steak with marrow and potatoes

The younger of our party finished off this meal with a huge pot of chocolate mousse. It was hard to contemplate. I decline to show it to you, Dear Readers, as I fear pictorial calorie overload.

Love from Paris,

Era and Don

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About the Authors

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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