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Farnsworth Travel Blog

Photos and travel diaries by Era & Donald Farnsworth

Dear friends and family,

Shortly before we left on our trip we had a visit from Kathy Goncharov, chief curator at the Boca Raton Museum of Art, who is putting together a tapestry show at the Museum. Kathy is a former US Commissioner to the Venice Biennale and brought a beautiful glass show Glasstress from the Berengo Studios at Murano to Boca Raton. Kathy kindly offered to introduce us to  the people at Berengo, which she proceeded to do. 



Early on December 30, Marco Berengo showed up at our palazzo loading dock with his boat to pick us up for Murano and the Berengo Studios. 


Our French neighbors (renting a different floor in the palazzo) looking down and greeting us.


Pulling away down the Grand Canal; that's the Palazzo Loredan where we're staying; the gray building with the scaffolding on the side.




The Wild family, enjoying the view from the back of the boat.



Passing the Salute or the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. 


Marco and Era posing (very Japanese of us).



And on the other side of the boat, the Wilds whooping it up. Are they water skiing?

We stop by the Lido first to pick up Adriano Berengo, Marco's father and founder of the firm, and two of his younger children.


Tying up at Murano.


Adriano Berengo and Era with some crazy lighting by Pieke Bergmans, a Dutch artist.






Some of the many kilns at Berengo. That orange is actual flames shooting through the cracks in the door.


In the back rooms.




An installation, partially deconstructed. Marco explained that they had a big party here during the Biennale with elaborate computerized lighting which lit up the glass objects installation hanging from the ceiling. Sorry that I can't remember the artist's name.



Glass bamboo


Projects by different artists; a sketch by Ai Weiwei for a future project in front of the terra cotta colored pine cone looking piece by British artist Tony Cragg. The bones and almost everything you see is glass.

The bee hive or pine cone like pieces are made up of many cross-sections of small human heads. The ears provide some great texture. 


The charming goat is by Marta Klonowska, a Polish artist 


Took a pre-lunch walk past old Murano warehouses. All the glass blowers and manufacturers were forced to locate to Murano long ago because of fear of runaway fires in Venice proper.

 Lunch at B Restaurant, down the street from the Berengo Gallery. It is not very impressive looking, looking somewhat like an American restaurant, but the food was delicious. 

David enjoying his octopus salad.


Jill cutting into her carpaccio, which she kindly shared with us. Underneath is a bed of arugula. Delicious. After traveling with the Wilds, I now know that I would do well to order whatever Jill orders. She has a knack.


Jill and I both ordered branzino (European sea bass). Decidedly yummy.


The talented chef at B Restaurant

Arrivederci, Murano. A wonderful visit. Thank you, Marco, Adriano and Kathy Goncharov.


Hard to believe, but this photo has not been Photoshopped. 



Another day, another view from the apartment, towards the Accademia Bridge which is being repaired and is covered with some construction netting.


We decide to brave the crowds at Piazza San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale (the Doges' Palace). This is inside the courtyard, past the entrance. Back in the Middle Ages designers and builders were brought to Venice from Constantinople to construct the Palazzo Ducale, the Basilica San Marco and surrounding area. This is what gives it and Venice as a whole its decidedly fairy tale Eastern flavor. The piazza was formerly some orchards, small houses and other buildings which were all torn down. All buildings facing the piazza were required to construct the arched colonnades that you see today.


Inside, it's overwhelming, and so much happening on the ceiling that one gets a neck ache looking up. Those of you who have been there will understand, but my memories were not nearly equal to the reality.


Room after room.



This shows a city being attacked by what look to be Venetian galleys. There are a number of these paintings featuring different cities under attack.



A popular subject in Venice; Venice hosted the Pope and Holy Roman Emperor Barbarossa who were fighting each other and negotiated a peace. The story is that Barbarossa kissed the feet of the Pope, and the Pope presented the City of Venice with a gold ring which the Doge took out into the lagoon in his famous barge, the Bucentauro, and threw the gold ring into the waters, symbolically marrying Venice to the Sea. A high point in Venetian history, the subject is well-represented at the Ducal Palace. This event is reenacted every year.


Piazza San Marco at night. Don, Michael and Era braved the cold and went out for an evening walk.





Michael and Don. We all felt it was too cold to stay out till midnight, but they did shoot off some fireworks for New Years.

Happy New Year, everybody. It's an amazing planet, inhabited by many beautiful people (now and in the past), who have created some astounding cities, structures, buildings, filled with art and so many delights. Let's hope we, including our leaders, can be worthy and appreciative of this precious legacy and the gifts that have been handed to us.

Love,

Era and Don



Dear All,


This is more like weather we would expect in Venice in the winter.





Jill making a delicious ragu. Era and Michael relaxing in the background.



Another photo from the apartment.



A great little hidden - very out of the way restaurant. Venetian specialties.



David Wild enjoying his appetizers.




December 28, we are scheduled to visit David’s place of work (a high-end fashion designer) in Cavarzere, a little over an hour outside of Venice. We went to the train station, only to find that there were no trains running that day to Carvarzere - some type of track repair. So on a very misty day we travelled across the bridge to Mestre and rented a car. Don drove the little roads to Carvarzere and back.


Passed this impromptu and rather motley shrine on the way to the shop. David told us it sprang up when someone saw a vision of the Virgin Mary in a cloud of dust, or something like that.


Most people were taking the day off at Geoffrey B. Small, but Diana, Geoffrey's wife and one of the owners, is there to show us around; Geoffrey and some workers showed up later.


Geoffrey told me over lunch he relocated to this area in major part because of the gorgeous fabrics available here. The fabrics used in his clothes are certainly yummy.


And speaking of yummy, a very good meal at a local restaurant, where we were served course after course.
This is the antipasti course, and we all had a secondo course.

Back in Venice to a Vivaldi concert. Very well-attended, totally booked. Later also went to a sort of opera greatest hits, also fully booked. Some absolutely beautiful voices and live musical accompaniment.



More shots from our apartment window.





We puzzled over whether the mountains in the background are the Dolomites or the Appennines, finally deciding that they must be the Dolomites.

The next day I had scheduled a tour with Nicoletta Cosentino, a young licensed guide with an extensive art history background,


One of many amazing ceilings in Venice; this one in San Pantalon. The Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St Pantalon was painted on canvas by Gian Antonio Fumiani between 1680 and 1704, when he tragically fell to his death from the scaffolding. I read this in Wikipedia, not from Nicoletta. There is some controversy about whether this is how he actually died.

Outside the Frari (the Franciscan church in Venice)

Filled with treasures; it is amazing that Giovanni Bellini painted this only 100 years after the flat Byzantine style was in vogue


The gorgeous Assumption of the Virgin by Titian. This was the painting which made his name; according to our guide he was a fabulous painter who had not been recognized and spent his time working on other artists’ works. His talent was finally recognized by members of the Pesaro family who hired him for some major works in the Frari.



Not ornate, but still quite beautiful ceiling in the Frari.


Our guide, Nicoletta, looking about 15 in this photo, with her mesmerized tour group. She was highly accomplished, knowledgeable and a mother of two, so definitely older than she looks.



We finished up the tour with a visit to a custom shoemaker. A charming woman, she makes her shoes to fit the customer’s feet, bunions and all.


A room in the beautiful Ca’Rezzonico, almost next door to us.



Venice abolished or attempted to abolish slavery very early; In 960 Doge Pietro IV Candiano issued an edict doing away with slavery, although it seemed to take hundreds of years to really enforce. Still, as most of us know, this is far earlier than most cities or nations.




Giandomenico Tiepolo, who I find I love much more than his father, Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. Quite a few Giandomenico Tiepolos upstairs in the Ca Rezzonico. Above is The New World.

Mary, Era and Bob

We were invited to Bob and Ewa Morgan's for dinner with Bob's brother Tom, Tom's wife, Mary, and Mary's brother, Jonathan. Very jolly and Ewa cooked some delicious rabbit which had been raised by a friend of hers. Bob is a painter in Venice and also photographer of the lovely photos in the Peter Koch publication of Watermark by Joseph Brodsky. Magnolia printed the photos as etchings (photogravures) which appeared in the book in a rather unique way; printed front and back on opposite sides of the page, with the back image being slightly altered to show the passage of time.

Ewa Gorniak Morgan, who has recently published her own book on Venice, using many of Bob's paintings and photos, and also Jonathan's. She is now looking for a US publisher.




Happy and More Positive New Year, Everyone! And we wish us all the Best of Luck in 2018!

Love,

Era and Don


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About the Authors

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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